![]() See the assembly and instructions video below for a full explanation. The maximum slab thickness is determined by the number of risers (if any) used to mount the side rails, the length of your router bit, and whether or not you are using a 1/2" collect extension. 10' (120") long router sleds include a set of 4' (48") and 6' (72") linear rails. The slab flattening area for each size router sled when using a 2.5" diameter slab flattening bit (like the SpeTool CA-IP-D1/2)* is as follows: Router Sled SizeĨ' (96") long router sleds include two sets of 4' (48") linear rails. The size of the Crafted Elements router sled represents the approximate footprint of the sled components when assembled and reflects the workbench area required to mount it. ![]() An optional dust collection shroud and 2.5" boot is available to help catch some of the dust created by slab milling. The router sled is available in lengths of 4', 6', 8' (2 sets of 4' rails) and 10' (4'+6' rails) with cross bar widths of 40", 48" or 60". We also offer a blank "drill it yourself" base plate if you have a router that isn't in our compatibility list. The router base plate features pre-drilled holes for most commonly used routers, making assembly that much quicker. Use any compatible full sized router with a range of commonly available spoil board (slab flattening) bits. ![]() The Crafted Elements Router Sled jig comes with everything you need except the router, slab flattening bit, plywood rail risers and workbench. Includes an 11-3/4 adjustable steel miter bar. Once the initial assembly is completed, the router carriage (sub-assembly) and rails can be setup and ready to go on your existing flat and straight workbench within 2 minutes. Our smallest Coping Sled works on both the router and shaper, either in the miter slot or against the fence. Save shop space with the easy to attach and detach linear rails. Build A Router Table Multi-Sled (Coping, Small Parts Holder, Tenons, Circles, Etc.) Video by. We precision cut and machine 1/2" thick acrylic components for the cross rail brackets and router mount to create a durable, cost effective solution that is going to save you time, money and boost shop efficiency. The assembled sled lets you pass your router back and forth in an XY-plane to consistently flatten an entire slab. Our router sled is built with industrial grade 20mm components commonly used in CNC machines, large 3D printers and industrial automation. This innovative kit provides the necessary hardware to build a large-capacity router sled for flattening slabs. If you don't have the space or money to buy a large CNC machine ($10K+) or industrial planer ($70K+) then a router based slab levelling jig is a great solution. The Crafted Elements Router Sled (Wood Slab Flattening Mill) is perfect for small wood shops and garage woodworking warriors that have limited space. ![]() Consider Buying Our Hardware Kit + Router Base And Sourcing 20mm Rails + Bars Elsewhere If You Need One Sooner.Ĭhoose Using The 'Size' Drop Down Menu Above To See Updated Size, SKU and Price. But routing across the grain of a workpiece can be a problem. The coping sled has but one purpose but it's an important one! Helping the woodworker make a cut across the end grain (short end) of a work piece to create a joint that allows you to build frame and panel (also called rail and stile) doors.This is a precarious cut at best and without support to back up the cut, you can easily hurt yourself or at the very least ruin your work piece.Complete Router Sleds Are Out Of Stock Until Early August. A router table is a great tool for producing tight, crisp joints. It can help make the cope cut much more efficient, accurate and safe. ![]() One of the most useful jigs you can have for the router table is the coping sled. To really up your game and achieve a more decorative door you need to use rail and stile router bits to cut the grooves,profiled edges and most importantly the cope cut that allows the rails to "mate" perfectly with the stiles. You can make a simple clean door using just one tool! However you are limited to making a simple door with no profiled inner edges. I've made lots of frame and panel doors just using my table saw. ![]()
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